Journal - Paihia to Whangerei

Paihia to Whangerei

Day 11
12/7/16 - 19:45
Got my bounce box today and sent it to Wanganui. I also got a box from home! New shoes, snickers candy bar and leukotape were a wonderful sight. These shoes worked much better on the gravel roads (thicker soles). I made it into Russell forest this evening and I'm Camping underneath a DOC shelter. It's supposed to rain and I want to keep my tent dry. It was a great walk down the Papakauri stream today. My feet were almost numb by time I was done, but it was very scenic. Still not working up much of an appetite unless I'm in town. Not sure what's going on.

Day 12
12/8/16 - 20:56
Walked in the rain to Teal Bay today. I stopped at the beach here underneath a tree to eat lunch. I was napping when a black poodle woke me. I nice man named Bill was walking his dog and stopped to chat. Bill offered up his yard, outside shower and a electrical plug for recharging my phone and I readily accepted. The hot shower was wonderful after walking in the cold rain. He had me inside for a cup of tea and conversation. His wife, Katherine, was also very nice. He even offered to give me a lift in the morning to the next trail head! Great folks!

Didn't cover much ground today, but being able talk with a local Kiwi and share stories and thoughts made up for lost distance. I'm really enjoying meeting all of the folks along the trail.

Day 13
12/9/16 - 20:11
Great walk today! I covered a good distance and saw some beautiful country. I never fancied myself as a beach or coastal person, but the Whananaki Coastal Walkway may have changed my mind. Gorgeous! Few people, few houses, grazing cattle, soothing waves and clear skies truly made today a day to remember. I stopped for a piece of fried snapper at the Matapouri store. It put the perfect topping on a great day. Saw a brood of California quail with two adults today. Reminded me of the little lesser chicks we used to catch.

Supposed to rain again tomorrow. I kind of enjoy walking in the rain.

Day 14
12/10/16 - 19:46
Walking through the small communities along the coast the past few days has been a great delight. Ngunguru was a lovely little place and Pataua, my campsite tonight, may be my favorite place on my journey so far. Reminds me of the abundant small towns in Kansas. I watched some surfers and the sunset this evening for about an hour. Talked with a local family cooking smores on the beach. I couldn't be in a better place.

Day 15
12/11/16 - 19:22
Struggles appeared again today. The estuary crossing was difficult (I didn't wait for low tide like I should have). The wind was a nuisance, Ocean beach was a pain and I couldn't find a boat ride across the bay to Marsden point. I even tried to get a refreshing beer at a beach side bar, but they wouldn't serve me because I'm not a member. I'm tired and in need of a shower. I couldn't find a legal campsite this evening so I'm snugged up behind a little church. I doubt I'm hurting anything, but I probably shouldn't have camped here. Tomorrow I will hitch to Whangarei to use the library, resupply, and possibly stay in the YHA hostel. My clothes are really starting to stink.

Journal - Ahipara to Paihia

Ahipara to Paihia

Day 5
11/30/16 - 19:15
I resupplied, mailed a bounce box, and stayed an extra night in Ahipara yesterday. My feet were grateful today. Today was the best day on the trail yet. I hiked a good distance and saw new and exciting scenery. The Herekino forest track was tough. I saw several new birds and even associated a few songs to faces. Now I just need to learn their names. I made a few sketches to refresh my mind.

I will fall asleep tonight feeling a bit nostalgic. My campsite is splendid. Next to a flowing stream, my tent is nestled beneath many large pines offering a unique view of the sunset. I will fall asleep to the sound of crowing pheasants and singing California quail. Thoughts of home and Montana are racing through my mind.

Day 6
12/1/16 - 20:15
Physical limits were pushed today. After letting my shoes dry at the Takahue Hall, I began the walk towards Ratea forest. My feet grew sore from the gravel road walking. I really need better shoes. I began the ascent into Ratea and quickly became winded and tired. My limited food intake is hurting my performance. I need to force myself to eat more. After two hours of ascent I realized my water was not going to last the entire forest and there likely would not be water available along the trail. I started hiking slower and conserving water.

I made the Ratea summit and walked for I one more hour until I made camp. I have about 10 oz of water for half a day's walk tomorrow. I'm already dehydrated and will have to take it slow. I didn't set my tent up tonight. No chance of rain. Cowboy camping sounds wonderful beneath the trees. Hopefully the bugs won't be too dense.

Day 7
12/2/16 - 18:36
Made it out of Ratea around noon. I stopped at a small stream while walking through pasture land. The stream was littered with cow pies and stagnant water, but I drank anyway. Probably one of the most refreshing drinks I've ever had. I made it to the community of Mangamuka around 1600. The small store there served burgers. I ordered a Hawaiian burger, and a double scoop of cookies n cream and strawberry ice cream. Delicious. There was coconut flavoring in the cookies n cream. Nice touch!

I then started walking towards the Apple Tree Campsite. I got about a 6 km hitch from two wonderful local farmers. It was such a great pleasure speaking with Erica and Philippa. They reminded me of many folks from home. The Apple Tree Campsite is a lovely spot. Near a marsh, I heard several new bird calls and even saw a feral pig grab a drink. Feet are sore from the road walking.

Day 8
12/3/16 - 19:23
Today was a superb day on the trail. I overcame a important mental obstacle today. Among other things, I've been worried about covering enough ground during a day in order to keep pace with my time goals. I cemented in my mind a better alternative while walking today. I took the day as it came. I enjoyed many small pleasures and basked in the beauty around me. I spent three hours relaxing, drying shoes, snacking, napping, and bathing near the Waipapa River. For the first time on my trip I was truly in the moment. Worry and anxiety melted away for a bit and I felt more accomplished today than I have in a long time. Here's to enjoying more moments.

Day 9
12/4/16 - 19:33
Covered lots of ground today! My feet and legs get stronger all the time. The gravel road walking sucks, but it does allow me to go faster while not sacrificing enjoyment. Someone left a bag of fruit for Te Araroa walkers on the trail. I indulged myself in an orange. Walked through lots of farm ground as well. In addition to Jersey dairy cows, there seems to also be an abundance of Shorthorn and Shorthorn crosses in this region of NZ. Saw two black feral goats as well. I've never spent a lot of time around sheep and so it is interesting to walk through them and watch their reactions. Easily excited, I kept my distance. Their desire to herd up in the sense of danger was very evident. A hen turkey and two chicks walked by me during my lunch break. They knew I was there, but didn't seem worried. I wanted to catch and eat one. Perhaps next time.

Camping next to the Kerikeri river tonight. While taking my shoes off I accidentally touched an electric fence. Wow! Kiwi's don't use moderation when setting the voltage of these fences! Felt like someone hit me on the head with a baseball bat! I bet there was 7-8000 volts going through that wire. Lesson learned.

Day 10

12/5/16 - 20:45
Rainbow falls and the rest of the walk down the Kerikeri river was gorgeous. Saw lots of other folks using the trail. One fella had a Labrador mix that immediately improved my spirits. Stopped for a meat pie (delicious) and a nap in the Kerikeri park. Spent the afternoon walking to Paihia. I hate gravel roads! Saw a hedgehog and lots of California quail. Camping tonight at Haruru Falls. Lovely spot. Tomorrow I will take a rest day and let my feel heal a bit. Plan to go to the library in Paihia, resupply, and cook an actual meal at the hostel.

 

 

 

Journal - Arrival/Cape Reinga to Ahipara

Arrival

11/23/16 - 20:33  

So many thoughts and so little energy. I've been constantly moving for about 36 hours. I've traveled thousands of miles (isn't flying an amazing thing?) and seen so many new things. I've already experienced the generosity of NZ locals and noticed differences from homeland counterparts. Tonight I'm staying in a hostel in Paihia, Northland with 5 young German folks. Tomorrow I will hit the market for supplies and catch my bus to Kaitaia. From there I will hitchhike to Cape Reinga (start of the trail). 

This day has been on the horizon for so long I started to loose sight if why I decided to make the journey. Today, among new people and new places my heart and mind are restless with anticipation and motivation.  I can't wait to put this inspiration to work over the coming months. 

Cape Reinga to Ahipara

Day 1
11/24/16 - 19:15
I don't even hesitate to say that today was one of the best days of my life. I can't help but think that in the near future I will experience the opposite. I witnessed generosity, hostility, love, compassion and the beauty of good people today. Instead of grabbing my bus to Kaitaia I opted to hitch. No refund on bus ticket...oops. Hitchhiking will be one of my favorite activities on this trip without a doubt. From Paihia, a man named Simon game me a lift to Kerikeri, where a biologist named John of all things gave me a ride to Kaitaia. Unfortunately, I did not get pictures of Simon and John so I can't thank them properly on my blog. I enjoyed great conversation with each man. 

I received three more hitches from Kaitaia to Cape Reinga. A local retired man man named Marty was a joy. Paewai, a local Maori, was a logging employee that shared a beer. Yvonne and Brenda, nurses from the Netherlands, gave a long ride to a sweaty, tourist to finish out my trip north. Once to Cape Reinga, Yvonne, Brenda, and I enjoyed a stroll to the lighthouse and meaningful conversation. Oh, and Scott and Kristy gave me a small lift near Kaitaia. I am extremely grateful for the help I received today and will find a way to pay it forward. 

My campsite this evening is gorgeous, as is everything I've experienced so far. This is one of the first times I've really appreciated the ocean in all it's wonder. It's immense size is unfathomable to a hick from Kansas. 

Tomorrow I have a long walk to the Twilight Beach Camp. I will undoubtedly need sleep and a big mean tomorrow night. FYI - Food is heavy! 

I passed my goal today, but my feet and ankle are suffering. I covered ~26 km between walking from my camp at Tapotupotu (stunning campsite), to Cape Reinga and to the Te Paki stream. I'm pretty sure I'm not supposed to be camped here. 

Once again all the scenery is stunning. So many new and interesting plants. I need to start learning them. 

I ran into three AT hikers today. Alex, Kristen and some guy who wouldn't speak up enough for me to hear his name. I asked four times! They all offered helpful advice and promptly left me in the dust. Someday I will walk as fast as them. 

I've already decided to never stop on or near a beach again. Sand is everywhere! I didn't have another choice though. I have 83 km to Ahipara. I'm going to try and make it in two long days. I already know I'll need a rest day in Ahipara. A piece of humble pie is coming my way I think. 

Day 2
11/26/16- 18:45

Humble pie has been served. I walked 41 km today. My feet are in the worst shape they have ever been. This may be the new normal though. I made it to my goal campsite, Hukatere Lodge. I'm ashamed to admit that I cheated, however. I came across two Canadian guys with their truck stuck in the sand. They asked for my help and I readily obliged. In return, they gave an ~10 ride to my campsite. I'm disappointed in myself for accepting the lift and I hope I do not continue on that pattern.

Tomorrow I plan an easy day to try and let my feet recover. I put my tent up without standing. They have a shower here that I plan on using, but I'm worried about open soars on my feet getting infected with who knows what in the campsite shower. I guess I'll just wipe them with antiseptics afterwards.

I'm not eating as much as I thought I might. Perhaps my body is too tired. I'm forcing myself to eat a tortilla with peanut butter at the moment.

I can't wait to get off this blasted beach.

Day 3
11/27/16 - 13:45

I've walked 12 km today. They were the hardest ones yet. My feet are in rough shape. A rest day in Ahipara will do them good. Only 24 km left on the beach! I'm trying to stay motivated. As John McCarty , editor of The Texan during The Dust Bowl, it's time "Grab a root and growl"!

18:47
Staying at the 90 Mile Beach Holiday Park in Waipapakauri this evening. I made it about 17 km today and although my spirits are high my body is worn out. I've learned many lessons the past couple days. I've got 14 km to Ahipara tomorrow. Much growling ahead.

Day 4
11/28/16 - 19:52

It took 3 and 1/2 days to conquer, but I'm done with 90 mile Beach! Thank goodness it wasn't actually 90 miles long. My sore calves and bloody feet felt great as I limped into town. The mind's ability to drive the body was obvious today. I was sidelined on the sand dunes for about two hours this morning by high tide. It gave me a chance to reflect a bit on my experiences so far. I've met many wonderful and amazing people so far. Goodness is everywhere I've decided. Give people a chance and you may be surprised.

While in Ahipara I will regroup and reassess. My goal is to finish this trail and not to do in in record time. I will listen to my body more responsibly moving forward. I will lighten my pack, consider new shoes, or soles, send a bounce box ahead and then take on the forest tracks as a more enlightened tramper.

I want to head out close to full strength. This may require two nights in Ahipara. My lodging budget is looking thin already. In the future it will be important that my body isn't totally beat at the end of a section so that I do not require much rest.  

It was great to touch base with folks from home this afternoon (and follow the Chiefs game). I can feel so many people encouraging me. I know a lot of people don't understand why I'm doing this, but the fact that I still have their support is a wonderful thing. That's one of the many things I'm thankful for this Thanksgiving.